To get a nice roll on the collar, the lower collar had to be trimmed a bit; here it is on the dressform before trimming. The collar will be worn down most of the time, I decided to optimize it for that. It will still look fine when pulled up as a standing collar. This might not be necessary with a flatter fabric, like a gabardine.
You can see that the edges line up just fine in the front; it is only on the outer edge of the collar that the top layer needs to be a little larger than the bottom layer. (Again, this is before trimming, so you can see I needed to take off about 1/8")
And for some inexplicable reason, the collar just didn't want to lay nicely in one place. It kept folding into creases on the underside.
I stitched extra quilting on the offending under-collar and problem solved.
And then sewed the rest by starting at the other end of the seam and sewing my way into the middle. It worked!
And here is what the lining looked like from both sides, before installation into the coat. That red piping is snazzy, eh? Can't really go wrong with red when sewing black and white. Truth be told, I'd have preferred gold, to pick up on gold in the best buttons ever, but red was all they had in stock. I wasn't about to make my own piping! Maybe I will do that one of these days, but not for this project. And yes, the lining is a rather boring black, but I wanted to use what I had on hand and avoid frittering away more dollars (mainly because I did not find anything fabulous when I looked).
It was just one big long seam to attach the lining to the coat - and here it is before top-stitching, hemming, buttons and button-holes. Oh yes, and I still need to add the cuffs to the sleeves. All in all, we've come a long way!
I think choosing the pattern was the hardest part of this coat. And I love the Style Arc Grace pattern. It has been a real pleasure to sew.
I guess it will be a coat soon!
Happy Sewing, all y'all, and a very Happy Thanksgiving to my American friends!