Thursday, November 22, 2012

assembling the coat

To get a nice roll on the collar, the lower collar had to be trimmed a bit; here it is on the dressform before trimming. The collar will be worn down most of the time, I decided to optimize it for that. It will still look fine when pulled up as a standing collar. This might not be necessary with a flatter fabric, like a gabardine.


You can see that the edges line up just fine in the front; it is only on the outer edge of the collar that the top layer needs to be a little larger than the bottom layer. (Again, this is before trimming, so you can see I needed to take off about 1/8")


And for some inexplicable reason, the collar just didn't want to lay nicely in one place. It kept folding into creases on the underside.


I stitched extra quilting on the offending under-collar and problem solved.


Next came the sewing of the sleeves. I wondered whether I'd really manage the top stitching once the sleeve was assembled, and all it took was some extreme bunching. I sewed as far as I could from one end.


And then sewed the rest by starting at the other end of the seam and sewing my way into the middle. It worked!


And here is what the lining looked like from both sides, before installation into the coat. That red piping is snazzy, eh? Can't really go wrong with red when sewing black and white. Truth be told, I'd have preferred gold, to pick up on gold in the best buttons ever, but red was all they had in stock. I wasn't about to make my own piping! Maybe I will do that one of these days, but not for this project. And yes, the lining is a rather boring black, but I wanted to use what I had on hand and avoid frittering away more dollars (mainly because I did not find anything fabulous when I looked).



It was just one big long seam to attach the lining to the coat - and here it is before top-stitching, hemming, buttons and button-holes. Oh yes, and I still need to add the cuffs to the sleeves. All in all, we've come a long way!

I think choosing the pattern was the hardest part of this coat. And I love the Style Arc Grace pattern. It has been a real pleasure to sew.

I guess it will be a coat soon!
Happy Sewing, all y'all, and a very Happy Thanksgiving to my American friends!

19 comments:

  1. it's looking lovely so far! red piping is definitely snazzy :)

    ReplyDelete
  2. It's looking fantastic! You make it all look so easy!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Can't wait to see the finished coat. Happy Thanksgiving!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Love it. Looks tremendous.
    What brand piping did you use/recommend?
    Happy Thanksgiving!

    ReplyDelete
  5. It is looking glorious, I have so enjoyed seeing this come to life. Looking forward to seeing it completed.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Beautiful coat - the piping is such fun. Very classy!

    ReplyDelete
  7. Thanks for sharing all these great coat tips, I am planning on sewing my coat so your tips have been a great help!

    ReplyDelete
  8. It's beautiful and I'm glad to see you added a lining. Happy Thanksgiving!

    ReplyDelete
  9. Red and black and white? The best! Gorgeous coat, it's been fun to see it come together. Happy Thanksgiving to you, too!

    ReplyDelete
  10. Happy Thanksgiving. The coat is still looking gorgeous.

    ReplyDelete
  11. Oh, it is coming together so beautifully!

    ReplyDelete
  12. Oh it's looking so cool!! Can't wait to see the finished product. :D

    ReplyDelete
  13. It is looking really good. The red piping is enough for the black lining to look really good. Nice :)

    ReplyDelete
  14. I can't believe how quickly you sewed this baby up so far. I spend most of my time fretting when I sew, and hoping the machine will thread itself. I really like the red piping.

    ReplyDelete
  15. You do great work. Like what you did with the collar....I was originally going to incorpoate a collar stand (upper collar? Under collar?) but am worried about the effect when I wear the collar up....it gets REALLY cold in Otttawa at times and I love the idea of hiding my face behind the collar! You are really motivating me to get going on this project.

    ReplyDelete
  16. What a fabulous coat. You'll be wearing this for years.

    ReplyDelete
  17. You are doing some beautiful details on this coat and I like it very much that nothing less than perfection will do - like taming that collar. Here's hoping you get the cold weather to properly test it.

    ReplyDelete
  18. Love it and since this pattern is on my own line up so happy to have you do all the test driving for me. Looks great.

    ReplyDelete

Thanks for visiting my blog and Happy Sewing, xo