|Draw a vertical line at center front and a horizontal line at the base of the armscye.|
|Slice and move the neckline detail, using tape to attach extra paper to the pattern,|
The lines provide guidance to keep pieces aligned.
|Smooth out the new neckline - mark new stitching line and new cutting line.|
By the way, before tackling the front alterations, I fitted the back (here) on the cardigan. I don't reinvent the wheel every time I sew a new pattern. I refer to my tried and true (TNT) patterns and leverage previous work whenever I can.
Evaluate: take measurements of the pattern and take measurements of my body.
Deciding what to measure is driven by the design. When faced with a poor fit, it's good to think in terms of all these different measurements to find the variances and get into some specific problem-solving.
The pattern measurements that matter to me (size Aussie 12) are:
- Base of armscye, from one side seam to the other is 21"(53cm)
- Middle of armscye, from edge of sleeve, is 15"(38cm)
- Across shoulders, from sleeve cap to sleeve cap, is 15.5" (39cm)
My body measurements are different, as follows:
- Base of armscye is narrower by 2.5" (6.4cm)
- Middle of armscye is narrower by 2.5" (6.4cm)
- Across shoulders is about the same.
|On the left is what the pattern - on the right is my body.|
The red lines indicate new armscye shape.
This analysis reveals that my shoulders are not too narrow. It is the chest (measurements 1. and 2.) that are narrower than the pattern. In addition, the bust point on the pattern needs to be lowered.
Here are the pattern adjustments to Style Arc's Alice top I sewed recently:
|Step 1. Draw lines to identify center front and base of armscye.|
|Step 3. Add length below the base of the armscye.|
This lowers the bust point. Normally, I'll also make a full bust adjustment, but
adding to the side seams is good enough in this design.
I get a little faster each time. I think I understand the characteristics of my body now. I am super happy to wear clothes that fit. Overall, yes, it is worth the trouble. In my world, comfort and vanity go hand in hand.
The good news is that sewing the top is faster than making the pattern alterations, and now I have a couple new TNT knit top patterns.
What am I doing on the computer? I need to go and sew more of these tops! I have a SWAP to finish!
How about you? Do you make more alterations?
And how do you feel about it?
Are you nervous about my SWAP?
*** update ....