This is a random post about collars and collar stands, as participation in cyber-conversation about shirt construction. This is also why I sew - so I can get the fit and function that is important to me.
My pattern is a TNT originally copied from an Eddie Bauer store-bought shirt, but now altered almost beyond recognition. The collar has two pieces:
1. the stand- the front of the stand is curved, for a better fit at my neck.
2. the collar- the edge that attaches to the stand is also curved. [Also, the edge that touches the shoulders is curved, but I am not discussing that aspect of the shaping in this post.]
The collar stand is curved, the collar is curved, and furthermore, the curves go in opposite directions. Yes, it is tricky to sew, but that's how flat fabric is shaped into 3 dimensional clothing. I learned about these collars by reading Pam Erny's blog, but the same information is presented in books like David Page Coffin's shirtmaking book, Threads magazine articles and other online tutorials.
For my body shape, and for the sensual pleasure wearing well-fitted clothing, I will take the extra time to sew the curved collar stand and curved collar.
Peggy is fun, entertaining and knowledgeable. I have taken classes from her at Sewing Expos. Some shortcuts are brilliant, but some will result in that RTW fit needing improvement, depending on one's particular body.
Personally, I get a better fit with the separate curved pieces.
Here is how I attach the collar band and the collar to a shirt:
Clip seams, iron well, use good quality interfacings and fabrics and the reward is a long lasting shirt. My shirts last longer than any other item I sew, so a little extra time is time well spent.
How about you? Preferences?