Monday, August 8, 2011

skirt - hanging pretty

One of the things I like about the Sewaholic Lonsdale dress is the way the skirt pieces are designed.  When an A-line skirt has a one-piece front, with center front cut on the fold, it just sticks out and I don't like the look on me. 

But the Lonsdale is different - 
The grainline is marked on the pattern piece.  This makes the seams on center front, sides and center back on the bias.
Fabric fabric drapes differently - more gracefully - on the bias

Anon asked these questions on my last post:

Have you found any difference in the way the fabric drapes 
when you use the cross grain?

No - when I played with a sample piece, it seemed to work just the same whether I tugged on the grain or the cross-grain.  As soon as you start handling the fabric, pre-washing, folding, laying it out, etc, be alert for the behavior of the fabric.  I learned early on that I can't memorize a lot of facts and understand fabric.  I have to touch it and handle it and, well, abuse it a little bit.  To me, this is where you use your sense of touch to learn directly from the fabric.  If a little voice inside your head says, "no this sturdy waxed African cotton is not going to drape well in the dress I'm considering" - listen!! That little voice knows something.

Are you lining instead of underlining the skirt because the latter would affect the drape of the skirt?

Hmm, I am running out of time this morning, so I will post again tomorrow when I can fully explain this one.

Have a great day, more to come ...


  1. Thanks for the follow-up answer. I've been reluctant to use the cross grain because it's been pounded into my head that it behaves very differently. I have some RTW dresses with border prints, but they appear to have been woven into the long grain as a special repeat.

  2. Hey anon, I know what you mean, I have been reluctant to cut on the gross-grain without a good reason, just out of caution.

    Maybe someone who know more about fabric weaves will comment.

  3. In Power Sewing, SB goes into how the differences in grain look on the body, and cf is not flattering, doing exactly what you mentioned.

  4. I subscribe to your bias thoughts as well. Even if the pattern doesn't say to do so, I put the grain on the center of the piece, as in your Lonsdale. I second Nancy's reference to SB. She put into words the nastiness I was seeing whenever I made a bias skirt.

  5. As usual you have taught me something new! Thanks, I will try the bias cut on my next skirt.


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