When I want new clothes, making my own pattern is the fastest path from point A to point B. This is for purely one reason - fitting a new pattern is time-consuming for my particular measurements. Adding design details to a basic pattern (also called a block) is so much faster.
|This dress design is shown in the upper left hand corner on the sketch from this post.|
|Trace a copy of the block and make design changes. I like to use|
Make Your Own Dress Patterns by Adele P. Margolis
|Darts rotated, shoulder tucks added and fullness added.|
|Four dress skirts, ready to go!|
I don't have different blocks for wovens and knits. The same blocks get used for all types of fabric. I sew mockups using muslin, and muslin only. The purpose of the muslin is to work out construction intricacies, and to fine-tune fitting. Making a mock-up out of a (hopefully similar) knit hasn't worked well for me because the knit fabric stretches and I can't get a sense of the true fit.
It seems more productive in the long run to use each new mock-up as an opportunity to build knowledge of fabric properties.
To my mind, the journey from muslin to finished garment includes travel through the forest of fabric knowledge. Every fabric is a little different and falls somewhere on the continuum from a very stretchy knit (needs negative ease) to a tight twill (would require much more ease). The properties of fabric, the hand, the turn of cloth - these vary a great deal (and the continuum is not a straight line).
Understanding fabrics is an education unto itself and worth the time invested.
But then again, this is just how I do it.
About a year ago, I bought David Page Coffin's book on shirt-making and I expected to learn better methods and make better shirts. It is a great book and he gets fabulous results.
After trying it his way, I had an epiphany:
My way works for me - in fact, it works BETTER than his way!
And my ways might not work for you.
As they say, your mileage may vary!
Hey, I will do the drawing tonight for the lavender fabric. I can't wait to see where it's going! If you haven't done so yet, leave a comment here to be included.