Sunday, May 1, 2011

Jacket #5 - a new beginning

Here it is, May 1st and I am actually starting my fifth jacket.  I am pleasantly surprised!

I sewed a muslin of Jalie City Coat #2680 over a year ago and made a sweater coat from the pattern.  A sweatery knit is pretty forgiving so the fit was not crucial.  Now I wanted to sew  a woven fabric, so the pattern needed fine-tuning.  I pulled out the muslin and put it on the dress form and pinned away, attempting to improve the fit in the hips, armscye and bust.

After reading Claire's post about Camilla's shoulder princess seam, I moved the princess seam on my pattern accordingly.  Then I made new paper pattern pieces and tissue-fit them to the dress form.
I also extended the shoulder seam, but later reverted back to the original length.
I measured the stitching line on my tried 'n' true 2-piece sleeve pattern to make sure it would fit in the new bodice pattern.  Bummer - there was a 2.5 inch difference, which is 1.5 inches too much, in my experience.  Since I know the sleeve pattern is good, the bodice must be wrong.

Next, I pulled out my tried 'n' true jacket bodice and used that as a template to fix up my pattern.  
Some day I will trace my basic patterns onto the oak tag and hang them like a real pattern-maker.
That will please me.

More decisions.  How big will the buttons be?  That affects the width of the center front closure.  And the collar?  What kind of collar did I want?  

How about the collar I sewed on Kelly's coat in January?  That was easy to sew and it looked good.   I found instructions easily enough in Adele P. Margolis' book Make Your Own Patterns.  I highly recommend this book for the clear drawings and logical explanations.  

All of my sewing time went to pattern work this weekend!  From

"Those who would climb to a lofty height must go by steps, not leaps."
St. Gregory the Great

Clearly, having a lightweight jacket pattern is a lofty height.   The sewing gods aren't handing it to me on a silver platter, that's for sure.  You can expect to see many versions of that pattern once it has been perfected!

I hope you are having some bit of fun in your weekend - see you next time!
Happy Sewing


  1. I liked your muslin back then. In my opinion, a pattern that looks good in muslin (rare) is a real winner in fabric. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished jacket.

  2. Lord - I love the wall of patterns!

  3. Ah yes, ajdusting patterns. Did I mention that I took five days to fit a classic jacket pattern and put it onto heavy weight paper (not sure if that is same as oak tag). And I plan to make it up many many times!! Good idea to use your sleeves and ajust the bodice accordingly. And good job on being up to no 5. I am working on no

  4. 5 Jackets. You must be turning pro by now. :)

  5. I'm sure your jacket will be wonderful, with all this finetuning of the fit! I wish I was half as organised!
    I enjoyed your post on the royal wedding fashion! I thoroughly enjoyed the coverage too, and l adored checking out the fashions. Such fun! I thought a lot of the outfits were just gorgeous, but there were a few clangers. What was Victoria Beckham thinking?? She looked like she was attending a funeral. I thought Camilla looked just dreadful, but she always does. I suppose I've just got a grudge against her because I idolised Diana as a teenager... :)

  6. There's always more to learn isn't there! I'm sure you'll have a beautiful jacket at the end of it all.

  7. Just commenting here a second time to say thank you for your very kind comment yesterday! It made my day!


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