Here it is, May 1st and I am actually starting my fifth jacket. I am pleasantly surprised!
I sewed a muslin of Jalie City Coat #2680 over a year ago and made a sweater coat from the pattern. A sweatery knit is pretty forgiving so the fit was not crucial. Now I wanted to sew a woven fabric, so the pattern needed fine-tuning. I pulled out the muslin and put it on the dress form and pinned away, attempting to improve the fit in the hips, armscye and bust.
After reading Claire's post about Camilla's shoulder princess seam, I moved the princess seam on my pattern accordingly. Then I made new paper pattern pieces and tissue-fit them to the dress form.
|I also extended the shoulder seam, but later reverted back to the original length.|
I measured the stitching line on my tried 'n' true 2-piece sleeve pattern to make sure it would fit in the new bodice pattern. Bummer - there was a 2.5 inch difference, which is 1.5 inches too much, in my experience. Since I know the sleeve pattern is good, the bodice must be wrong.
Next, I pulled out my tried 'n' true jacket bodice and used that as a template to fix up my pattern.
|Some day I will trace my basic patterns onto the oak tag and hang them like a real pattern-maker. |
That will please me.
More decisions. How big will the buttons be? That affects the width of the center front closure. And the collar? What kind of collar did I want?
How about the collar I sewed on Kelly's coat in January? That was easy to sew and it looked good. I found instructions easily enough in Adele P. Margolis' book Make Your Own Patterns. I highly recommend this book for the clear drawings and logical explanations.
All of my sewing time went to pattern work this weekend! From
"Those who would climb to a lofty height must go by steps, not leaps."
St. Gregory the Great
Clearly, having a lightweight jacket pattern is a lofty height. The sewing gods aren't handing it to me on a silver platter, that's for sure. You can expect to see many versions of that pattern once it has been perfected!
I hope you are having some bit of fun in your weekend - see you next time!