|*this measurement chart was found online via google images*|
If you can't watch the hour-long webcast, you can read a synopsis of Peggy's approach on the Silhouette Patterns website. I like this knit top, and bonus: that collar is just what I am looking for to finish off my guipure lace jacket (more to come!)
With my new BFF fitting buddy (Wolfie), I can tissue fit easily.
[People wiser than I am suggest that I] fit the back first. So I did. I selected a size 4, based on the finished garment measurements provided on the back of the pattern envelope.
Look at that back neck-to-waist length. Long! The pattern picture makes it look like the collar rides up pretty high on the back of the neck, but if I sewed this without adjustment, mine would not end up that way. Also, I'd need to increase the hip circumference - not a difficult alteration.
A look at shoulder seam reveals quite a gap. I am accustomed to seeing this variance - my lengths vary from the lengths of the pattern. Looking at lengths first is logical - and Peggy is very clear on this. That proves to be very good advice. If I sewed this straight out of the envelope, it would not fit well at all.
When there is this much alteration made to an armscye, the sleeve will need adjustment, too. On the bodice front, the dart needed to be shortened by an inch, but otherwise the cup-size-specific pattern piece fit well. At least no full bust adjustment is needed!
Conclusion? I will just use my basic bodice pattern. Why re-invent the wheel? The instructions for the collar very clear and I can easily adapt it to my own pattern. I think it is well worth $14 for this pattern to get those instructions and, heck, the webcast was free. So, my purchase supports her work. I like how there is just so much information available online.
Do you find this interesting or helpful? I have been thinking about posting more reviews of the fitting books and tools I use. If it only helps a few people, that is good enough for me! It took me an awfully long time to understand my own fitting issues, so if I can help anyone get answers faster, I'll feel like I am getting something back for all that effort! If it helps anyone in the sewing community, it is a good thing. The more we all sew and support our fabric merchants, pattern-makers and teachers, the better.
Robin, The Sewing Evangelist