Monday, January 24, 2011

pattern alterations for JAM#1

I took apart the original coat and here is what it looked like:

Here you can see how this ten-year-old coat fit before.  The armholes felt tight.  Neither center front nor center back closed to hang straight.  

To address the tight fit in the armholes, I enlarged added 1/4 inch to the width & length of each side of bodice front, each side of bodice back and the sleeve.  The width affects the entire bodice - it is cut through the vertical darts.

To make center front and center back hang straight, the vertical darts were let out:

To provide additional wearing ease, the side seams were increased:

I sewed a muslin to double-check the fit and scheduled a fitting just before the lining was installed.
Voila, a new coat:

I am participating in the "Jacket-A-Month Sewalong" and this counts as jacket #1.  
And, I am keeping this pattern! With a shoulder alteration, this pattern fits me, too.

There were a few shortcuts - I just followed the manufacturer's construction techniques.  There are no buttonholes in the pocket flaps, no sleeve-head and the only stabilization was block-fusing all of the fabric and a narrow twill tape sewn on the front edges of the facing. 
Overall, about as easy as a coat can be.  Time-consuming, yes it goes without saying - but not difficult.
(now I want one!)

1 comment:

  1. Love it especially the length. Would you believe that I'm thinking about another coat too?


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