Friday, December 10, 2010

adjusting a sleeve for an adjusted armscye

When the upper bodice, in the shoulder area, is made smaller, the corresponding sleeve won't fit - because the bodice at the bottom of the armscye is now larger.  In this case, the bodice is 1.5 inches larger at that point.
and the related sleeve adjustment:

This is a test sleeve to be sewn with the adjusted bodice pattern.  It will need to be fitted from there.   If the shoulder alterations are more complicated, the impact on the sleeve must be considered.  For example, if the shoulder seam is moved forward, so is the sleeve cap.

more to come...

5 comments:

  1. Very easy to understand. Thanks Robin.

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  2. Interesting that you take out the excess at the side of the sleeve head. :) I have to do the reverse adjustment and add in about 3/4 inch since i have to length the upper shoulder. I've always slashed the sleeve pattern at the spot where it connects to the shoulder and separated it there to get the extra space.

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  3. Hi Robin,

    I just found your blog and I am very much enjoying it. You explain things so well.

    I was hoping you could help me.... I was fitted for a semi- fitted jacket pattern but sewed it up as a blouse first. My "fitter" moved my shoulder point forward 5/8th of an inch. We also did a FBA of an inch and a half and decreased the shoulder lengths by the following ways: we made a horizontal tuck in the back through the shoulder and down the back (I think I might have to add it back in because the upper back feels a little tight.) From the front, my fitter took took more allowance from a vertical seam that runs from the shoulder down to make the front shoulder seam shorter. I'm assuming this affected my armcye (even though we did not shorten the shoulders from the end of the shoulders????) And to be honest, I still think the shoulder length is still a smidge long.

    I also didn't check the length of the sleeve head before sewing the sleeve into the armhole... The problem I had was that the sleeve cap was two and half inches bigger than the armcye.

    In the unaltered pattern, per the designer, there is only suppose to be a little over 3/4 of inch difference from the armscye and sleeve cap. I tried taking in the sleeve seams in by an inch (it is a two piece sleeve) but that kind of made the sleeves a little tight and there was still too much ease on top since the sleeve cap height was still there.

    What do you think happened? I've also read from the blog, Fashion Incubator (that's how I found your blog) regarding sleeve cap ease, reshaping armholes, sleeves, etc...

    Did you ever post anything in regards to forward shoulders?

    BTW, I like your lasted post of your shirt! Very nice!

    Thank you in advance!

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  4. Hi Ursula, From your description, it sounds like you are working with a bodice that has shoulder princess seams. I love that style because those princess seams can be used to perfect the fit of the upper torso on front and back.

    I don't think the changes made the armscye smaller, but you can compare it to the original pattern to see. My first suggestion is to remove some of the sleeve cap. Yes, I have posted about forward shoulders. I hope I have tagged those posts and you can find it that way. I'll make a note of it to go back and update tags. Feel free to email me if you still have questions!

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