Saturday, November 6, 2010

A curved shoulder seam? It worked on my coat!

Fabric Give-Away:  Comment #29 gets the shirting fabric.  mitch1099 - I sent an email to you.

soooo, where am I on the shirt?

I tried it on this morning after inserting the sleeves.  Right off the bat, it seemed wonky and I started to doubt the pattern changes I had made.  I had added a yoke, removed ease in the sleeve and made a sloped shoulder adjustment to the back.


Feeling disappointed, I tossed the shirt aside and left the sewing room to do other things.   When I came back and tried it on again, it didn't seem so bad after all.

The main issue I see is across the shoulder. Shoulder seams on patterns are always straight, but my shoulder is not straight.  My shoulder scoops down and then out.  Maybe I should curve the shoulder seam.

I had an epiphany as I mulled over the adjustment Kenneth King made to my coat when he curved that shoulder seam:

Maybe my shoulders are always shaped like that - not just when I am getting fitted by Kenneth King!  Who would have thought?  Perhaps I would prefer a shirt that has a curved shoulder seam!

So, I will finish this shirt, but the next one won't have a yoke.  At least, not a traditional yoke like this one.
Speaking of the gray coat, I wore it today and got some photos.  The curved shoulder seam is great, too!
I love my new coat.  It came out kinda short, but ... oh well, I will wear it!
Happy Sewing everyone!

23 comments:

  1. Love the coat! I think that one of the challenges of self-fitting (or is it sewing because we're so picky about fit?) is to come to a realization of what designs work and do not work on our bodies. If you can pick the patterns that will work better, will require less fitting challenges, and will therefore be easier to make - you make your own job so much easier. I guess it's called being realistic. That shirt looks wonderful, anyway. Who is actually going to come up to you and scrutinize your shoulder? And if they do - ...

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  2. Also, I believe that we reason through alterations that would work with our bodies and then because the "experts" aren't doing that or it's never seen in RTW, we get cold feet and don't follow through. I encourage you to try that curved shoulder and experiment with it as much as possible. When it comes to fitting your body, you are more likely to be RIGHT than the experts are.

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  3. Wow! I never thought of curving the shoulder seams. How ingenious!

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  4. Your coat looks fantastic. Great idea abou the shoulder seam, good luck with your next shirt.

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  5. Your coat is absolutely beautiful.

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  6. You (and your coat!) look great, Robin. And, yowza, such nice legs. ;)

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  7. The coat looks great, and I think you're right to go with your instincts re: shoulder seams. Looking forward to seeing your shirts!

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  8. The coat is fantastic. It's great to see you wearing it. I never thought of curving shoulder seams. What a good idea!

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  9. I agree about the curved seams...if it works so well for the coat you should carry it forward for all garments. Pattern pieces are made for the general public ~ alterations are made for our individual bodies.

    And gurl, I am LOVING the coat! Just loving it!

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  10. I do so love your coat and the collar is just perfect - the length would be perfect for our winters because they are too mild for anything which is longer. The proportions of the coat relate well to each other - if you lengthened it, the ratio of top to bottom wouldn't be so pleasing...

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  11. I agree with Carolyn, and you could probably still keep the yoke as the front seam seems to be at the shoulder?
    I just love your coat too - love that collar!

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  12. Getting the correct shoulder fit makes such a difference in the look of a garment. I have sloping shoulders also. I take 1/2" off the shoulder at the armsythe and taper a straight line to the neckline. Your coat looks fantasic!

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  13. I love your coat. The proportions look good to me.
    The curved shoulder seam is an interesting idea. I am looking forward to your experiments.

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  14. Your coat could not look any cuter on you! Wonderful work!

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  15. The coat is absolutely fantastic on you. There will be many happy times wearing it.

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  16. Gorgeous coat - you've done a great job - it really suits you and looks fabulous!

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  17. I like the shorter length. Longer could look matronly.

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  18. I don't think it looks short. It looks incredibly chic!

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  19. Your coat looks fantastic and so does the shirt.

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  20. Hi Robin,

    Your coat looks fantastic, I love the curved shoulder seam idea. Do you think it worked because it helps support the collar at the base of your neck--The collar lays very nicely! Jen

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  21. Your coat looks fabulous! And I think your shirt looks good too. the curved shoulder is such a subtle thing.

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