Friday, September 24, 2010

Coat: Skirt & Sleeves

This project has been nice to work in chunks so that I can have little achievements along the way.  I prepared the skirt by attaching the interlining and opening the windows for the buttonholes.  In this pattern (Butterick 5145) the front facing is attached to the bodice.

Then came attachment of the lining.  I sewed the lining hem to the coat hem by machine, right sides together.  The lining is 3/4" shorter than the coat.  I was very glad I thread-basted the hemline with red silk thread.  I learned to love thread-basting seamlines - it is reassuring to see where the stitching line belongs, or in this case, the hemline. 
It's not possible to see it, but I sewed the hem to the interlining and then flipped up the lining.

 Next, I sewed the center back pleat, pressed and set the skirt aside. 

On to the sleeves!  I used these nice sleeve heads that I got back when I joined the Great Coat Sew-Along.  (I had sewn 2 coats the previous winter so I did not sew a coat during the sewalong, but I did get the all-important notions when Marji generously organized them for the group.  Thanks, Marji!)

I looked at Els sleeve head tutorial and determined that the outer edge of the sleeve head gets sewn along the seam where the sleeve is set in to the coat.  The notch belongs at the shoulder seam and the longer end belongs on the back side of the sleeve.

You can see the sleeve head inside the sleeve here: 
(The front of the coat is towards the left and the back of the coat is towards the right.)

I cut the seam allowance down to 1/4" and zig-zagged to neaten. 
 And the bodice is hanging up, ready to meet her friend, the skirt!  After the skirt is attached, I'll insert the bodice lining.  And I will get some buttons.   There are lots of great buttons at The Trim Buyer on Etsy, that Kristine found.

I just love this fabric!  It has been very cooperative.  I have to be careful then pressing.  Even with a press cloth, it's not hard to over-do it.

I want to thank you for your nice compliments on the coat and the comment on my blog posts.  It is pretty easy for me to document my work because I do this on my job.  It is very quick to make a few pictures and add notations and I will refer back to it in the future (when I forget what I did!)  Plus, documenting really reinforces what I am learning as I go.  (That is true on my job, too.  I like documenting my work.)
And the dress form from Wolf isn't here yet.  That will come in early October.  I have a nice little sewing organiza-va-cation planned soon.

*Have a nice weekend*


  1. This is looking seriously impressive!

  2. It is just awesome watching you put this coat together. And thanks so much for documenting the process because it is fascinating. Can't wait to see it finished!

  3. It's looking great Robin. I'm glad that you are documenting it. It's always interesting to see how other sewers work on more complex projects.

  4. What a pretty coat! Documenting reinforces everything for me, too, and is a way to capture all those little details I forget.

    Can't wait to see more!

  5. What a great post! It is so interesting to see all the tailoring work that goes into a coat. Patterns never include all these steps. Your coat looks fantastic so far. I can't wait to see your next steps.

  6. You are doing great work on this coat. Thanks for the detailed posts.

  7. I am so impressed by your work on this coat! Thank you for all the work showing us how you are doing it.

  8. Wow, this coat if beautiful from the inside out. Thanks for such great detail.

  9. I'm eagerly following your progress on your coat. Thank you for the detailed description. I'm learning so much from you while reading!

  10. Thank you for documenting your coat construction. Your posts are highly informative and will serve as a tutorial for me as I will attempt to make my first winter coat shortly.

  11. So meticulous! This is going to be one sharp coat.

  12. Enjoying your posts on your jacket project. It is turning out so nice!

  13. The sewing is as always wonderful but I cracked up looking at the pictures on your "Inspiration" board. I think we have the exact same shots! Scary!


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