Saturday, August 7, 2010

Coat muslin Butterick 5145

I sewed a muslin this weekend.  Boy that was a lot of work!  Just the pattern adjustments took a few hours with scissors, paper, tape, pencil and ruler.  This is the first time I have sewn a Butterick pattern since who knows when;  all I know is they never fit.  I got out a pattern (out of Bernina My Label) that I used to sew a jacket last Fall.  The tissue had only sizes 14-22 and my shoulders are about a 10.  So, basically, I cut on the size 22 lines for height, 10 for shoulders, then 16 for everything else.  This time I did not add any height to the armscye.  Also, this muslin is OK as a light coat, but too small to be a real winter coat that fits over layers. It has to get bigger.

Yes, it is tricky to morph from a 10 in the shoulders to a 16 in the bust and I cannot begin to understand exactly how that works - I just trace from the BML pattern that fits and it seems to work.  And for the sleeve, I used an existing sleeve pattern that already fit.  Forget trying to alter the pattern- the shape is just different in a way that is still mysterious to me.

Then, the next sewing session was cutting and sewing the muslin.  I used this really awesome coat-weight muslin I got from Gorgeous Fabrics.  Wow!  That is some heavy muslin. 


(yes, there are already shoulder pads in there)
I totally messed up the collar - probably cut it without the seam allowances because it was way too small.
The muslin still needs work, but hey- I think this is the best 1st try I've ever sewn.  I am feeling some progress.  Definitely.
And I am really glad I am sewing so far in advance because I am not going through another winter with RTW.  I found something that fit last year but the color was not good and it was completely worn out at the end of the winter.  I can do better than that!

I have been poking around the Neiman-Marcus and Saks websites for inspiration.  I found something GREAT!  I can use my black sequin fur fabric for a coat like this :)  Should be versatile, eh?
OK, well happy sewing and fitting and so on and so forth.  When I met with Susan for a lesson, I told her "I just haven't figured out how to fit myself" and her reply was, "Fitting yourself is hard".  That kinda made me feel a little better.

Carry on!

12 comments:

  1. sewing a coat muslin is dedication indeed because there is a lot of sewing in a coat. I didn't resolve my fitting issues until I did my weekend Palmer/Pletsch fit workshop - but it sounds like you are in extremely capable hands with what you are doing. I love coat making, love love love it, I have never been able to find RTW that will fit my size 46 bust and 36 shoulders (European sizing) either.

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  2. Good luck! The coat looks great from the front. I think you could even take the back in a bit - it's a bit blousy at the top, but maybe that's the way you are standing. I have learned that I have a small upper frame (I usually cut a 10 in the shoulders/high back) but sometimes could be an 8. But I'm a 12 in the hips. And an 10/12 in the bust. I feel your pain!

    I'm in muslin-making mode this weekend as well. So boring! But I'm proud of myself for being a big girl. :)

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  3. The muslin is looking good and looking forward to your finale'. Although I avoid doing muslins, this fall I want to sew a coat and will definitely do a muslin first.

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  4. Your coat is looking good for a 1st toile. I always find it easier to fit others and hard to fit myself.

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  5. Robin, it's so interesting to see your muslin. Looking at the back I had the same excess ease (before I altered it). At the time I wasn't sure if it me or the pattern. As it is a coat pattern I figured it was the pattern. Your muslin seems to confirm this theory. :) Good luck! It's looking really good thus far. Very flattering on your figure.

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  6. This one seems to fit right out of the box. Looking forward to seeing it in the fashion fabric.

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  7. The fit looks really good! The only thing I see is the wrinkles running up & down the back next to the sleeve in the back photo, but that could be from holding your shoulders too far back for the photo. Good luck! I can't wait to see the coat :-) They're always my favorite thing to sew.... something about the smell of pressing wool makes me feel like it's really winter.

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  8. I know what you mean about RTW coats. I've hated them since I was a kid. For me, the problem area is always in the back - I can't move my arms forward. And, of course, the sleeves are a mile too long.
    Your muslin looks really nice. What pattern are you using from Butterick?

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  9. I have several coat muslins in my future as well. Sewing a coat is a big undertaking and muslins are certainly a necessary evil. I have very narrow shoulders too, but I go about it a bit differently. I cut for my upper bust measurement which is 2 sizes smaller than my bust and probably 4 sizes smaller than my hips. I still need to narrow the shoulders so I like Sandra Betzina's method from Fast Fit the best at that point. I still need to make the biceps bigger and do a multitude of other fixes too, so yeah I understand how long it takes! But it's is worth it in the end. I can never find a rtw coat that actually fits all of me! I am interested in what KK does to the muslin.

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  10. Oh I'm so jealous! See I'm just gonna tell the truth...you are working on a winter coat now? I never think of doing that until I actually need to wear it! Your muslin looks good and I'm sure you will get all the fit challenges worked out.

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  11. I have a bunch of coat muslins in my future too. Well, I have a bunch of everything in my future. Your muslin looks fabulous so I'm sure you will get all the details worked out.

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