Saturday, May 29, 2010

back in the saddle again, New Look 6559



After (what seemed like) an awfully long dry spell, I managed to sew a cardigan today. This is special because I made adjustments to the pattern, and my adjustments worked! Usually, when I sew a commercial pattern, I just use a TNT block and morph the design details to it.

But I mulled it over and came up with an idea of what should work.  I would like to think I do know how I am shaped and how patterns are drafted and how to meet somewhere in the middle.

I can't be that hard, can it?

I read Imogen Lamport's blog regularly (it's on my blogroll over to the right) and I've even had a professional consultation with her.  I learned that my body proportions are long in the upper torso, and my shoulders are narrow.  I did refer to my TNT bodice block to make sure the pattern looked about right.  But this time, I really did just alter the pattern- here is how I did it:
Since this was a cardigan to wear over a black tank dress (I sewed that last weekend) I wanted to use "loud" fabric.  That's another thing I learned from Imogen.  Wearing something busy around my shoulders and upper torso helps balance me out visually.  I do feel good wearing things she suggested, so it's good.  A garment can be busy by virtue of the fabric selection, or, design details.  To follow through on this idea, a military jacket would be good for my shape; epaulets, buttons, plackets and top-stitching are all good for me.

I didn't want the boring back side of this fabric to show at all, so I lined the entire bodice.  That makes it warmer for my ice cold office, too.

One more thing about proportions- since my waist sits quite low for my height, a short jacket gives some balance.  And the black dress is a good quiet background for the jacket.

In the past,  I would have used these fabrics opposite - I would have made the print dress and a black cardigan.  But I can wholeheartedly say that I enjoy wearing clothes more now that I have developed some insight into proportions.  This jacket had a lot of criteria to meet - and it succeeds! 

I especially like that I completed it within one afternoon.  I needed some instant gratification!
*Happy Sewing!*
 




24 comments:

  1. What a lovely cardigan! I also enjoyed your story about balancing out your figure. Very interesting; good work!

    Cindy

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  2. This looks so great on you! It's the way I usually wear prints...bottom basic in a solid color and the print on top. Glad you got some instant gratification.

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  3. So cute! The fit is wonderful and it looks great on you. Nice work!!

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  4. You certainly seem to have a handle on what looks flattering on you - you look fabulous!!

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  5. Great job on your alterations.

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  6. Super cardi! I love the print with the black dress. It's a perfect combination.

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  7. Isn't it great when you sew something you love?! Congratulations on your success. You're lookin' good in your new outfit!
    :) Deb M.

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  8. I also enjoy hearing your experience on what balances your body proportions. I've been giving this a lot of thought too.

    The cardi looks great!

    And thanks for commenting on my blog. ;)

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  9. Very nice cardigan. I love the colors!

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  10. You look so cute in that outfit! We have similar proportions, so thanks for the details on how you made the adjustments. I regularly do your numbers 1 and 2, but the angled wedge sleeve alteration is a new one on me - usually I just lengthen perpendicular to the grainline in the upper sleeve cap, but I can see how your change would help with shoulder sloping/forward issues.

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  11. Love the outfit! And its very interesting about the dark plain dress with the brighter printed cardi.

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  12. Love this outfit on you! The combination of the print cardigan and the black dress looks fantastic!

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  13. The print cardigan goes so well over the black dress. Enjoyed the drafting notes too.

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  14. Good job! I am a regular reader of Imogen's blog too. I have discovered I am an X and not an A after all!

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  15. it looks great! I almost baught this pattern. and now I wish I had!

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  16. I also follow Imogen's blog religiously...her advice has prevented me from making so many wardrobe mistakes!

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  17. You look fantastic, and the cardy makes the outfit. Enjoy.

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  18. Hello! I'm a new follower and just wanted to say that this cardigan is fantastic! I love the print. :-)

    ~Candice

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  19. what site is Imogen Lamport's? Thanks-

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  20. thanks all for your kind comments. I appreciate hearing from you.

    Judy, Imogen writes a blog called Inside Out style
    http://www.insideoutstyleblog.com/

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  21. What a great cardigan! I love the print you chose. I just found your blog and I'm enjoying seeing all the dresses you've made. Such talent!!
    www.seaminglysmitten.blogspot.com
    Jenny

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Thanks for visiting my blog and Happy Sewing, xo