Monday, November 16, 2009

Sweater Coat using the Jalie City Coat pattern


The Jalie City Coat pattern is designed for use with fabric that has come stretch; a woven with a little bit of lycra.  There is no lining, but there are facings for the front closure and neckline area.

When you look at the sleeves, you can see vertical draglines that indicate a somewhat flat sleeve cap with very little ease in the sleeve head.  A stretch fabric (as in a woven with lycra) can be difficult to ease, so this is a good thing. 

And if you wanted to sew a raincoat- that fabric will be even less willing to ease in as you set the sleeve, so I think this pattern would work pretty well for a raincoat fabric- and I intend to give it a try at some point to see if my expectations hold true.

For now I am using this pattern to sew a sweater coat.  I just like the lines.  I think it will be a great cropped shorter for a casual jean jacket, too.


Here is is so far.  I still need to finish off the closure seams.  I did not use the directions much because this fabric is so different.  A sweatery knit like this doesn't have much recovery, so that means it will sag right out of shape- even as you sew the seam, it will just get bigger and bigger.  The first thing I did to combat that was to decrease the pressure on the presser foot.
Then, I considered reinforcement options for each seam as I went along.  For the shoulder seams, I used narrow twill tape to keep them absolutely stable.  For all the vertical shaping seams, I just serged and topstitched them.  But the armholes were clearly stretching out too much, so I reinforced with clear elastic tape.  I held the tape taut while I eased the fabric in and I made it a little tighter, knowing the serging would stretch it back out.  Then I serged and got a nice smooth seam- only now it has a narrow elastic embedded in the seam allowance.  I learned this from reading Kathryn's I Made This! blog where she provides highly detailed descriptions of her projects.  Look at the knit dresses to see how she reinforces seams in knit fabrics.  I love to wear knits, but I have had disappointing results in the past, so I don't mind adding a little extra effort to combat sagginess.

OK! I gotta set this aside temporarily.  I am on vacation all this week.  I need to chose my pattern, sew a muslin and gather my supplies for the sewing workshop.
I have another day to goof around before I head up to Baltimore collect Marji  from Cidell's house and head on up to NYC for some super sewing fun.
Weather is gorgeous today, and true to form, I am indoors surrounded with my needle arts.  Knitting is cool.  Embroidery calls to me, too.  Have you seen sashiko?   I'll be looking for an embellishment technique for my 2010 SWAP.  Oh yes.  A lot of sewing fun planned.

17 comments:

  1. I am sew, so, sew jealous of your sewing workshop and your classmates! I will be with you vicariously!!! Have fun!

    Brenda

    (great sweater coat, too!)

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  2. I really like the way that jacket is turning out.

    What a great sewing week.

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  3. I found your comments about flat sleeve heads a revelationary? Is that a word, probably not but you know what I mean.

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  4. Terrific coat. I admire your sewing techniques. Cute hair cut!

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  5. This is going to be a nice sweater coat.

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  6. Looks great - comfortable and stylish!

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  7. Great looking hoodie coat! Have a great time in NY - wish I was there!

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  8. LOL. I'm not sure I'm ready to give her up! Thanks for reviewing this coat. There is a bamboo denim at A Fabric Place that I think needs to be made up in the Jalie.

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  9. I like what you are doing with the City Coat. Great tips, too.

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  10. That is one great looking sweater coat. I like all of the possibilities you mention for the use of this pattern. Thanks for the tips on sewing with the knit fabric, too.

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  11. Great coat. It looks nice and comfy!

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  12. Very nice! The coat is beautiful.

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  13. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

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  14. I just recently purchased this pattern too. I was looking at Google Images to search for more coat patterns and ran across your blog. Thank you for the information on the fabrics and seams. I will be printing this off to keep with my pattern.
    ~Kelly

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Thanks for visiting my blog and Happy Sewing, xo