Sunday, April 12, 2009

update to Bernina My Label

I had to update my measurements in Bernina My Label pattern-making software, and, BML updated their styles with a new 5 pocket jean. And thank you, Bernina, for making it a free download. I appreciate it. Because you were not cheap.

So, anyway, when you work with BML, the first step is sew a tunic as a test garment.
Then, you "qualify the measurements". By following the instructions, you will check the shoulder slope, dart position, armhole (armscye) depth, width across shoulders, bicep, and front and back length measurements.
On my first try, I wound up with an armhole that felt a little too tight. The instructions told me it could be an armhole too high, or, too low. The intended fit of the tunic armhole is 3/4" (2 cm) drop under the arm. I think my armhole is too low: To remedy the problem, I decreased the armscye depth measurement by 3/4". And, according to the instructions, the armhole depth is also influenced by the center back neck landmark. Sure enough, when I checked that, it needed to be shortened by half an inch.

I sewed version #2 and it seems OK to me. I will finish off both tunics- they are wearable for weekend chores.

Now, I can go ahead and print off other styles to use as basic fitting blocks. I am sure this fit could be improved by someone with more fitting expertise, but to me it seems comfortable enough.
Each test garment took under 2 hours to print, cut, tape and sew. Of course, each one still needs a little more time invested to be finished, but I am very pleased with how efficient this software is.
I really do not have a lot of time to mess around with, you know?
pretty cool.
update to this post:
I was reading sewing blogs and I saw that Carolyn just finished a gorgeous pants-suit with a sleeveless jacket. Chic. The sleeves came off when she had trouble with the sleeve and it reminds me of the trouble I am having with the sleeve in this tunic.
Then I read Georgene's post where she explains how to fix a sleeve problem on Hilary Clinton's jacket.
As I drove the hour from Rockville to Baltimore this morning ... it came together in my head.
I shall try again!
Thank you Georgene! Thank you Carolyn!!
Happy Sewing!!

8 comments:

  1. This software seems like a great tool to have . Your 2nd version looks like a great fit.

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  2. It's great that you got a good fit with the Bernina software. You'll no doubt get a lot of good patterns from it. I'm still on the fence about pattern drafting software. I learned to digitize, using the Bernina embroidery software. I suppose I could learn the pattern drafting program as well, if I put my mind to it.

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  3. I'm always curious about pattern drafting software. I'm glad you posted this information. I thought you just plugged in measurements and printed out 100s of patterns! A test garment is a good idea.

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  4. Cute photo LOL! Back when I used PMB exclusively a tip lead me to try Monoaqua liquid glue - dries fast and less mind-mushing than taping. Glad you've gotten such a good result with the BML!

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  5. You do so well with this program. Like Mary Beth I use to use PMB all the time. With the last upgrade, I just can't get the fit to fit!!! I read an article in Sew News or Threads recently about My Label and wondered if I should start saving money to buy it. Like the tunic and you seem to be getting the hang of reading the pattern and necessary tweaks

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  6. Your welcome! But I really don't know what I did because I basically threw my hands up in the air and cried uncle...*LOL* However, Georgene wrote some great advice about how to handle the sleeve problem...glad you resolved your issues, though!

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  7. Wow. I have had My Label for almost a year and still haven't tried it. Maybe I will finally take my measurements and give it a whirl. Thanks for the inspiring post.

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  8. I've never seen you make that face in a photo before, but it's totally cute! haha more funny face pics!! Like mother, like daughter, right?

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Thanks for visiting my blog and Happy Sewing, xo