Monday, January 21, 2008

Burda World of Fashion #106 01-2008 PIC HEAVY

Before I talk about sewing, I want to say it feels good to be an American today.
We have two viable candidates for president of the USA whose lives' work would not have been possible if not for the leadership of Dr. Martin Luther King. It is the best memorial to Dr. King I can imagine. Regardless of one's political leanings, this is a big deal.


On to sewing!
I sewed a white shirt featured in the January issue of Burda World of Fashion. I am still somewhat new to sewing burda patterns and I am settling into a method. First I get out the yellow marker! The booklet filled with directions tells me to find sheet E and look for black pattern lines. Size 44 will be a solid line. I will need pieces 1-6 and 9-11. On the sheet, there are black numbers along the edge that correspond to the pattern numbers. Once I have highlighted the pieces, I can trace them easily on the paper (I use the examining room paper found in doctors offices). I chose this style specifically because it is so similar to my tried 'n true shirt pattern. I know I will need alterations and I intend to find the differences between burda and my TNT.
I start by marking my TNT pattern with the stitching lines.

Then I traced and cut my TNT pattern pieces.
I did not include seam allowances on the burda or the TNT pattern. Those will be added at the end.

Now I lay the burda pieces on top of the TNT pieces. The differences can be seen readily, but the good new is that size 44 sure looks to be the right size overall.

I worked my way down from the center back seam and first adjusted the shoulder seams. I carry my height in my upper body, so I need to add more at the shoulder seam. I cut and taped extra paper to make it match the TNT. The princess seams are in different places on the 2 patterns and that's OK, I'll leave that alone. As long as I have the correct shoulder seam, I can move on. For now, I will leave the armscye alone. I'm moving down the pattern and checking the width at the waistline, then hips.
All along the way, I make sure my center back seams match and make adjustments to the burda patten along the side seam if necessary. Remarkably, I needed no changes to the side seam or to the length. I don't have a picture to show it, but I did adjust the armscye on the burda pattern to match the TNT.
Once the front and the back pieces were adjusted, I had to fix the sleeve. For this, I started by drawing a horizontal line where the armscye begins and I matched these on the TNT and the burda. From there I needed significant adjustments to the sleeve head. My shoulders are narrow and my bodice has to be reduced in the area around the front and back of my arms. So the burda sleeve needs to get bigger in these places to accomodate my arms. The sleeve cap didn't change.
Once I had the new, adjusted pattern pieces, I went ahead and cut them out of my white shirt fabric. I didn't sew a musin, since I am pretty confident of my TNT pattern and theoretically, I have made the correct alterations, right? Besides, this has been anough work already! WHo wants to sew a muslin!
I put the pattern pieces on the fabric, held in place with weights. I used a regular pencil to add seam allowances and cut. Sewing it together was the easy part!
More in my next post.

6 comments:

  1. Loved your opening tribute! It is a history making year isn't it? A black man and a woman running for President...there is hope for our country yet! *smile*

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  2. Robin, this is a great way of figuring out where you stand with a new pattern and if it will work for you. Being new to Burda patterns too, I did similar steps with a Burda t-shirt pattern and a vogue one. It seems like allot of work initially but pays off. Great pictures.I can't wait to see your shirt :)

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  3. Good post. Interesting to see this. I am going to make up some Burda very plain close fitting shirts to check which size I should go for. By my measurements I should be a 38 but I tend to be narrow in the upper chest so will do a 36 as well. I am going out now to buy some checked gingham to work with. So tomorrow hopefully I will have time to experiment!

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  4. Great information! I have yet to make a BWOF pattern but have this as a sewing goal. I have good success with Burda Patterns so should not be too much of an issue with BWOF. Love the lead in to this article and I agree with Carolyn's remarks, we have come a long way.

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  5. I'm discovering your blog through a comment you left at Sigrid's and I'll come back ;o)
    I just noticed that you highlight the lines prior to tracing a pattern. That is such a great tip. I'm always confused with BWOF and sometime end up following the wrong line.

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  6. Thanks for the great tips. I have a couple of patterns that I have made and I think that this is a great way of making a new pattern fit.

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Thanks for visiting my blog and Happy Sewing, xo

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